Monday, March 16, 2015

More than you wanted to know about the cause of “Lash Eggs” and Salpingitis

Written by Annika McKillop DVM, MSpVM, DACPV

Instead of getting your expected egg in the nesting box, one day you may come into the surprise of finding and egg-shaped ball of caseous exudate.  Caseous means “resembling cheese or curd” and an exudate is “a fluid with a high content of protein and cellular debris which has escaped from blood vessels and has been deposited into tissues or on tissue surfaces as a result of inflammation.”  Salpingitis, which means inflammation of the uterine tube, is the underlying condition producing this exudate.  This caseous exudate is essentially pus coming from the oviduct of a bird. 
Left: Normal egg laid by a hen.  Right:  Caseous Exudate or "Lash Egg" laid by a hen


Causes

There are many causes of salpingitis in Galliformes, and salpingitis can be found in other female species such as ducks and geese.  Salpingitis can be bacterial or viral in origin, and coinfection of Escheria coli and Tetratrichomoanas (a protozoa) can happen in ducks. Salpingitis results following the entry of an organism from the vagina and ascending the reproductive tract through reverse peristalsis, infections can descend from the greater abdominal airsac to the oviduct, by the blood in systemic disease, and spread from other adjacent tissues. 

Masses in the oviduct can vary in size.  Smaller masses within the oviduct up to the size of an egg can be passed by birds or can be regurgitated into the abdominal cavity by reverse paristalsis.  Masses can be so large that they can rarely cause rupture of the oviduct, but mainly are just so large that they persist in the oviduct until ovulation ceases, slowing the enlargement of the mass.  These enlarged masses cannot be expelled by the birds, and often press on internal organs and make it difficult for birds to breath as they cannot get adequate air intake into their airsacs as the mass displaces them.  In younger birds, salpingitis extends from yolk or air sac infections.  The oviduct becomes filled up with the caseous exudate which persists until maturity, and will be passed just before egg production.


Bacterial Salpingitis

Salpingitis caused by bacteria tends to be more exudative, causing “lash eggs” that are large and firm.  Contents of the masses include exudate, yolk, egg shells, membranes, oviduct tissue, and oviduct secretions that are malodorous.  When caseous masses are cut into, they can be described as having an onion-layered texture, or a progressive accumulation of concentric layers of material.  Sometimes fully formed eggs can be found in the caseous mass as a result of egg binding or because the egg became lodged in the oviduct in an area of localized inflammation.  The main bacteria and most prevalent cause of infection is E. coli, but other bacterial causes include Staphylococcus aureus, Gallibacterium, Mycoplasma spp., and Salmonella, Klebsiella spp., and Pseudomonas spp..
Caseous Exudate laid by a chicken and cut open showing accumulation of concentric layers of material.


Viral Salpingitis

Viral Salpingitis lesions, according to Avian Histopathology, contain “edema, hemorrhage and pale, turbid, creamy or gelatinous exudate.”   Viral causes are most commonly Infectious Bronchitis Virus, but can also include adenoviruses, Newcastle disease and influenza viruses.


Clinical Signs

Birds showing signs of salpingitis include birds with a “Penguin Stance” due to abdominal swelling, abdominal firmness upon palpation, labored breathing (as material increases in the oviduct, it replaces the area for birds to expand their airsacs and also presses on other abdominal organs), decreased egg production, eggs with abnormal shape, wrinkles in the shells, thin watery albumen in the egg, laying of soft-shelled and “lash” eggs, lethargy, and death.  Predisposing factors include age, malnutrition, vent pecking, excessive abdominal fat/over nutrition, and excessive and/or prolonged egg laying.
Chicken exhibiting a "Penguin Stance"


Prevalence

Multiple studies, personal experience, and discussion of the syndrome with other poultry veterinarians have shown that salpingitis is the number one cause of death in poultry layers in the commercial poultry industry.  To date, there has not been a study to show what the number one cause of death is in backyard poultry, but with personal experience, salpingitis is frequently seen in backyard flocks, especially in older birds.  The most common disease I encounter in backyard poultry practice is Mycoplasma species.


Treatment

Antibiotics, such as tetracyclines, can be used to treat salpingitis of bacterial origin if the infection is caught early enough.  Antibacterial treatment will vary depending on the bacteria and susceptibility of that organism to antimicrobial therapies.  There is no treatment for salpingitis of viral origin.

When treating laying hens with antibiotics, there is always a withdrawal time associated with the drug being used.  Contact a veterinarian for the appropriate withdrawal time set by Food Animal Residue Avoidance Databank (FARAD).  Some drugs, such as fluoroquinolones, including Baytril (Enrofloxacin), choramphenical, nitroimidazoles, and glycopeptides (including Vancomycin) are illegal to use in poultry in the United States, regardless if the animal is a pet.  The use of medication in feeds cannot be used off label, which means it cannot be used differently than what the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved.  According to FARAD, which is a congressionally-mandated risk-management program in food animals supported by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA):

“Under provisions of the American Medicinal Drug Use Clarification Act (AMDUCA) and 21 CFR part 530, FDA can prohibit use of an entire class of drugs in selected animal species if FDA determines that: (I) an acceptable analytical method needs to be established and such a method has not or cannot be established; or (II) the extra-label use of the drug or drug class presents a public health risk. FDA can also limit the prohibition on extra-label use to specific species, indications, dosage forms, routes of administration, or a combination of these.”


Surgery is an option, but you will need to go to an avian veterinarian that has surgical experience in birds and willingness to remove the oviduct in chickens.  This is very costly, and there are always risks to be considered when doing surgery.  Removal of the oviduct is essentially an exploratory surgery, and depending on the severity of the lesions (inclusion of peritonitis which is visualized upon opening the bird), prognosis is very poor, and a decision if the bird should be euthanized on the table can be warranted.  When pus/lash eggs or eggs are removed (without removal of the oviduct), there is a significant increased risk of reoccurrence. 

Hormone therapy has been illegal in the United States in poultry since the 1950’s, so hormone implants in the United States are not an option.  They may be an option in other countries depending on their regulations in poultry.  When discussing salpingitis with over poultry veterinarians, one of the best ways to help with salpingitis is to bring birds out of production.  The best method is to decrease the amount of light and change feed to a molting type of feed, especially if salpingitis is a flock problem.

Euthanasia is also an option, depending on the severity of infection in the bird.  Decision of euthanasia is based on examination, symptoms, and quality of life.


Recovery? 

Recovery depends on how far the infection has progressed, how early it is detected, and also if the bacterial infection has spread through the oviduct and started infecting other parts of the body (peritonitis).  Recovery and prognosis is therefore determined on a case-by-case basis.  If caught early on while the infection is still soft or not as extensive, you can treat with antibiotics and the bird can recover.  Birds that do recover do not have the same reproductive potential, and are also at higher risk of laying more lash eggs and oviduct obstruction.


Prevention

Good biosecurity is the first and foremost prevention of any poultry disease.  First start with clean chicks that come from a flock free of Mycoplasma, Salmonella, Avian Influenza, and Pullorum/Typhoid.  Flocks free of thise diseases can be found on the National Poultry Improvement Plan website in their database of tested NPIP flocks.  Also, getting birds of good chick quality decreases the chance of yolk sac infections, and good bird management/hygiene.

What if you come home with a new addition?
  1.        Keep your new birds separated from the birds you already have for a month. This is called a quarantine period.  Why? If the new birds have a contagious disease, they will most likely show symptoms within the first month. You can try to prevent spreading the disease to the birds you already have.  Some birds carrying diseases may not show symptoms of disease during this time, so the best thing to do when bringing a bird into the flock is to test them during the quarantine period.
  2.       Take care of the birds you already have first, then take care of your new birds second. If you need to go back and take care of your original birds again, take a shower and change your cloths.
  3.      Wash your hands before and after working with each group of birds, not only for their safety, but for yours as well.
  4.       Wash and disinfect equipment. Wash dirt/feces off equipment with soap and water, rinse well, then apply disinfectants such as Virkon, gluteraldehyde, phenols, alkalis, and hypochlorites. Most disinfectants are inactivated by dirt and feces, so be sure to clean with soap and water and rinse well.  You can also use a solultion of three parts bleach to two part water, and use it liberally to disinfect rubber boots and equipment. 
  5.       Have designated shoes for each group of birds.


If you come in contact or are around other poultry:
  1. Take a shower when you get home, and change your clothes/shoes before going around your birds.
  2. Wash your car in a car wash on your way home. When you and your car visit places that have a lot of different birds, its not just you that carries disease.
  3. Better yet, keep designated clothes and shoes for when you work with your birds!  Why? You can carry diseases on your cloths, shoes, and car from birds/products that you visit or come in contact with. Imagine a person that is sick, sneezes on their hand, and touches the doorknob someone is going to use after them. Disease is transmitted via the doorknob. You essentially become the doorknob between the sick bird and your birds, and you have the potential to carry disease home.


Other ways to prevent Salpingitis is good quality feed that is balanced (don’t overfeed treats or give “people food”, especially processed foods such as breads, cakes and pastas. Birds can be vaccinated for diseases present in the area, and all birds that unexpectedly die should have a necropsy performed to make sure it isn’t a contagious disease that can be spread to the rest of the flock.


Urban Legends

I have consulted with four other veterinary experts in the poultry field about the following urban legends.  Their credentials include over forty years experience, diverse background in layers including backyard and industry, academia, and board certification by the American College of Poultry Veterinarians.

When birds get sick, they can get such high fevers that eggs will cook inside of them. 
This is false.  According to the National Egg Council, United States Library of Commerce, and Bill Nye the Science Guy who did his own experiment, the minimum temperature to start cooking an egg is between 130 and 144 degrees Fahrenheit, with a temperature of 158 degrees to become firm.  Even at a lower temperature of 130 degrees, it takes at least 20 minutes.  Birds will die when reaching the temperature of 110 degrees Fahrenheit, and soon after perishing, the body temperature starts to rapidly decrease.

Lash eggs are caused by normal sloughing-off of the oviduct.
This is false.  The oviduct is a secratory organ that will regress during times when birds are not in production.  Lash eggs are caused by bacterial and viral infections of the oviduct.

I want to thank my colleagues for their input on the subject, and also to Kathy Mormino AKA the Chicken Chick for the WONDERFUL pictures and excellence in providing accurate information to poultry enthusiasts.  

~  Dr. McKillop is a licensed veterinarian and practices veterinary medicine in Maryland and Pennsylvania.  Dr. McKillop is the Founder and Owner of McKillop Poultry Medicine, LLC.  She has a Masters in Specialized Veterinary Medicine, completed a residency in poultry medicine at North Carolina State University, and is a boarded Diplomat of the American College of Poultry Veterinarians.  You can follow McKillop Poultry Medicine, LLC on Facebook.

References:
1) Saunders Comprehensive Veterinary Dictionary, 2nd Edition
2) Avian Histopathology, 3rd Edition. 2008
3) Diseases of Poultry, 12th edition YM Saif
4)  Salpingitis in poultry. I. Prevalence, bacteriology and possible pathogenesis in broilers. Nord Vet Med. 1980 Sep;32(9):361-8.
5) Salpingitis in Pekin ducks associated with concurrent infection with Tetratrichomonas sp. and Escherichia coli. Crespo R, Walker RL, Nordhausen R, Sawyer SJ, Manalac RB. J Vet Diagn Invest. 2001 May;13(3):240-5.
6) Diseases and Disorders of the Domestic Fowl and Turkey
7) Avian Disease Manual, 7th Edition Edited by Martine Boulianne.  2013
8) Avian Medicine and Surgery in PracticeBob Doneley, 2010
9) Poultry Health Handbook, 4th Edition.  L. Dwight Schwartz, DVM.  1994
10) Library of Congress.  http://www.loc.gov/rr/scitech/mysteries/friedegg.html Accessed 3/16/15
11) Food Animal Residue Avoidance Databank.  http://www.farad.org
12) A Practical Guide for Managing Risk in Poultry Production, 2011

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Rodents: Part 2

Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.com  Picture of House Mouse 


There are things you can do on a day-to-day basis to decrease the number of rodents on your property, or keep them from setting up shop.  Many people have other animals or pets that they house along with their chickens, and prefer not to use bait.  Here are some of the things you can do, without using bait, to reduce rodent populations.

1.  Get rid of places for rodents to hide and nest.  Yes, it is time for spring cleaning! 
  • Throw away or store empty feed bags.
  • Remove loosely piled building materials, miscellaneous equipment and loose garbage.  Anything that rodents can hide or nest in.
  • Keep grass cut neatly at least 3 feet around the coop and buildings.  This is called an apron.  Rodents don’t like to be out in the open, and helps in detecting any new rodent burrows.
  • Remove weeds- weeds give rodents food, water, nesting material, and cover from predators.


2.  Remove access to food.
  • Clean up spilled feed.
  • Always store feed in a covered, metal container.  30 and 55-gallon industrial drums are great for storing feed and can often be purchased from farm-supply dealers.  If a metal drum cannot be found, use a metal trash can with a tight lid.
  • Reduce feed spills by placing feeders so the lip of the feeder is around the height of the average sized bird’s back.  The best way to do this is to hang the feeders.

3.  Remove water sources
  • Eliminate sources of water, such as leaky taps, open water troughs, sweating pipes, and open drains.
  • Drinkers should be removed from sitting on the ground for easy mice/rat access.  The lip of the drinker should be at the level of the average birds back.  Taking drinkers off the ground will also help with water sanitation, and decrease the amount of water spilled onto the ground.
  • At night, you may want to remove the bird’s water, unless it is very warm and muggy.  Birds don’t often drink water at night, and rodents are generally nocturnal.


If a rodent population is already established on your property, doing just the things mentioned above won’t solve your problem.  Consider a population-reduction program, the topic of our next post!

Resources:
A Practical Guide for Managing Risk in Poultry Production.  2011.  Robert L. Owen, Editor.  Published by the American Association of Avian Pathologists.

“Rodent Control: 7 ways to keep mice and rats out of the coop” Mike Wilhite

Animal Damage Management, Dept. of Entomology, “Controlling rodents in Commercial Poultry Facilities” Judy Loven and Ralph Williams, Purdue University, Publication ADM-3-W

Rodent Control in Livestock and Poultry facilities, G.A. Surgeoner

“What you need to know about rodent control” Weibe ban der Sluis

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Free Webinar and Twitter Chat!

USDA APHIS is holding a Free Webinar and Twitter chat to answer some of your questions about poultry keeping on August 19, 2014!  Please see the flier!

Sunday, June 22, 2014

Rodents part 1: About rodents and how to recognize that they are around your farm


The most common rodents around livestock and farms are the house mouse (Mus musculus), the Norway rate (Rattus norvegicus), and roof rat (Rattus rattus).  They are difficult to eliminate from your property, even for pest control professionals.
Image taken from: “Controlling rodents in Commercial Poultry Facilities” Judy Loven and Ralph Williams, Purdue University Extension Article.
Why Control Rodents?
A) They carry diseases.  Mice and rats can carry up to 45 diseases transmitted to poultry and humans.  Some of these diseases include bordeltellosis, leptospirosis, erysipelas, salmonellosis, fowl pox, fowl cholera (pasteurellosis), trichinosis, toxoplasmosis, and rabies.  Rodents can also spread disease from a contaminated to non-contaminated area via their feet, fur, droppings, urine, saliva and blood.

B) Rodents can attract predators to your farm:  High numbers of rodents are a food source that can attract foxes, coyotes, raccoons, skunks, dogs, and cats that can contribute to disease problems.

C) They can damage buildings and insulation.  Rats and mice can chew through rubber, aluminum, cinder blocks, plastic, wood, improperly cured concrete and wool.  They can even start fires when chewing through electrical wires.

D) They consume and contaminate feed.  100 rats can consume over 1 ton of feed in a year, and contaminate the feed with droppings, urine, and hair.

Mouse and Rat Facts:
  1. They are nocturnal and highly reproductive- In ideal conditions, rats and their offspring and produce 20 million young in 3 years, and mice reproduce even faster.
  2. Rats can jump as high as 3 feet, and as far as 4 feet.
  3. Rodents can drop from heights of over 50 feet without being injured.
  4. Rats can swim half a mile in open water, and can tread water for three days.
  5. Mice and rats don’t like to go far from their nest.  Rats wander around a maximum of 148 ft from the nest, and mice 30 ft.
  6. Rats need water daily, while mice can live 2-4 days without water.
  7. Rodents prefer cereal grains, but will also eat garbage, insects, meat (they can antagonize your chickens and kill chicks), fruits and vegetables, and manure.
  8. Mice eat small portions and feed sporadically making as many as 20-30 short visits to food at night.  Rats tend to get their daily food at one or two locations.
  9. Rodents don’t like exposed spaces.  They often travel in contact with a wall or other objects, can climb rough walls, and travel along utility wires.
  10. Rats can squeeze through small spaces of a half inch, and mice through quarter inch spaces.
  11. Mice produce 40-100 droppings per night and rats about 20-50 droppings.
  12. Image taken from: “Controlling rodents in Commercial Poultry Facilities” Judy Loven and Ralph Williams, Purdue University Extension Article.







Signs of a rodent infestation:
Sounds: Gnawing, climbing noises in walls, squeeks
Droppings: Found along walls, behind objects, and newar food supplies.  Rat droppings are bean sizes, and mice droppings are rice sized.
Burrows:  Rat burrows – fresh digging around foundations, through floorboards into wall spaces.  In areas where the ground is soft, mice can also dig tunnels and burrow in the ground.
Runs:  Look for dust free areas along walls and behind storage material.
Gnawing marks:  Look for wood chips around boards, bins and crates.  Fesh gnawing marks will be pale in color.
Rodent Odors:  Persistent musky odors are a positive sign of infestation.
Rodent sightings:  Daylight sigting of mice is common.  Rats are seen in the daylight only if populations are high.  There are approximately 25 mice or rats for every one that is seen.


Next Blog
We will talk about how to control and prevent rodent populations!

Resources:

Dr. Mark Bland DVM, MS, DACPV, Cutler Associates International

“Rodent Control: 7 ways to keep mice and rats out of the coop” Mike Wilhite

Animal Damage Management, Dept. of Entomology, “Controlling rodents in Commercial Poultry Facilities” Judy Loven and Ralph Williams, Purdue University, Publication ADM-3-W

Rodent Control in Livestock and Poultry facilities, G.A. Surgeoner

“What you need to know about rodent control” Weibe ban der Sluis

Thursday, June 12, 2014

Prevent Bringing Diseases Home to Your Birds

The best part about spring, summer, and fall is that farmers markets, bird swaps, and fairs are up and running again.  The bad part?  You can bring diseases home to your feathered friends from the birds you encounter or acquire at these fun places.

There are things you can do to help keep your birds healthy!

If you come in contact or are around other poultry:
1) Take a shower when you get home, and change your cloths/shoes before going around your birds. 
2) Wash your car in a car wash on your way home.  When you and your car visit places that have a lot of different birds, its not just you that carries disease. 
3) Better yet, keep designated clothes and shoes for when you work with your birds! 
Why?  You can carry diseases on your cloths, shoes, and car from birds/products that you visit or come in contact with.  Imagine a person that is sick, sneezes on their hand, and touches the doorknob someone is going to use after them.  Disease is transmitted via the doorknob.  You essentially become the doorknob between the sick bird and your birds, and you have the potential to carry disease home.  

What if you come home with a new addition?
1) Keep your new birds separated from the birds you already have for a month.  This is called a quarantine period.
2) Take care of the birds you already have first, then take care of your new birds second.
3) Wash your hands before and after working with each group of birds, not only for their safety, but for yours as well.
4) Have designated shoes for each group of birds.
Why?  If the new birds have a contagious disease, they will most likely show symptoms within the first month.   You can try to prevent spreading the disease to the birds you already have.